LOW SUGAR print and keep on hand!!
Once your puppy gets there with you, he/she will need to be in a playpen or something where he/she doesn't become
over-exerted and his/her blood sugar drop out. He/She will need to be kept in a confined area for several months as they
are just so tiny and just a trip across the living room or kitchen floor can or will totally exhaust them and their energy
level.....dropping drastically just that fast.
Playing should be minimal for several months like maybe only three 15 minute playtimes out of the playpen per
day until they are older....
He/She will need nutri-cal or a bit of syrup daily before bedtime, this keeps the blood sugar up and helps
with calories he/she may need that they didn't get throughout the day.... I will usually feed about 2 - 3 Tablespoons of
soft dog food as well.
He/She will need hard puppy EUKANUBA TINY BITE SIZE, Royal Canian (Dry food) and Puppy sm canned food
with them daily along with fresh water that has had Corn Syrup added to it to keep the blood sugar level up.....
Having one of these tiny little ones is a lot of work and takes a lot of
time, he/she will also not be able to be left alone until he/she is at least 6-9 months old as once the blood sugar
level drops you have a matter of minutes before brain damage occurs and a coma sets in....so being there with him/her is
VERY IMPORTANT!!!
Things you should be aware of in the Toy breeds: Print this and keep it on hand!!!!
Once your puppy gets there with you, he/she will need to be in a playpen or something where he/she doesn't become
over-exerted and his/her blood sugar drop out. He/She will need to be kept in a confined area for several months as they
are just so tiny and just a trip across the living room or kitchen floor can or will totally exhaust them and their energy
level.....dropping drastically just that fast.
Playing should be minimal for several months like maybe only three 15 minute playtimes out of the playpen per
day until they are older....
He/She will need nutri-cal or a bit of syrup daily before bedtime, this keeps the blood sugar up and helps
with calories he/she may need that they didn't get throughout the day.... I will usually feed about 2 - 3 Tablespoons of
soft dog food as well.
He/She will need hard puppy EUKANUBA TINY BITE SIZE, Royal Canian (Dry food) and Puppy sm canned food
with them daily along with fresh water that has had Corn Syrup added to it to keep the blood sugar level up.....
Having one of these tiny little ones is a lot of work and takes a lot of time, he/she will also not be able to
be left alone until he/she is at least 6-9 months old as once the blood sugar level drops you have a matter of minutes
before brain damage occurs and a coma sets in....so being there with him/her is VERY IMPORTANT!!!
Once a puppy is down, you will need to first give him/her a 1 cc of straight corn syrup then wait 10 minutes and
give another 1 cc.... Keep him/her in a towel while he/she is down until he/she comes around as their temperature drops during
this time also or place a plastic pop bottle with worm water in it in the towel too.
After he/she is up and walking again, they will immediately want water and lots of it, BUT DON'T GIVE THEM ANY
for at least 1 hour as that will dilute the sugar and it will drop out again. After he/she is up again, offer some canned baby
food. Chicken or Turkey (bland) is the best and then after he/she eats, let him/her rest.
Check on them every 2 hours at least to be sure they are ok.
Give the nutri-cal before bedtime to get him/her through the night...
IF ever you feel he/she is having an episode that warrants the vet's assistance, then PLEASE give the 1 cc karo
on the way out the door, this could be the difference of him LIVING and DYING!!! Sometimes they are down so far that they
will need IV Fluids from your vet..But the karo is important to give until a Vet can be seen..
PLEASE DON'T BE AFRAID by what I have written, this is just things that you need to be informed of and prepared
for in the case of it happening. It doesn't happen in all the tiny ones but is better to be SAFE than sorry. Hypoglycemia:
This condition is caused by low blood sugar, It occurs mainly in Toy and small breeds such as Tea Cups puppies between
6 and 12 weeks of age also in dams that are nursing. Often it is precipitated by stress. The first signs are weakness
or depression lack or puppy will just sleep and not want to eat. This can occur if puppy has missed meals. This is followed
by muscular weakness, tremors (especially in the facial muscles) and later, convulsions, coma and death. This entire
sequence is not always seen and puppy will appear to be just tired and sleep. The puppy may appear to be depressed, or he
may be weak wobbly and jerky or he may be found in a coma.
Hypoglycemia can occur without warning when a puppy is placed in a new home, or while being shipped. It might
appear after a puppy misses a meal, becomes chilled, becomes exhausted from too much playing, or has a digestive upset.
Upsets place an added strain on the energy reserves of the liver and bring on symptoms if the puppy is susceptible. Puppies
who are fed human food rather than a quality puppy food are more likely to develop hypoglycemia. Their diet is deficient
in certain ingredients needed to sustain the liver. Puppies may also just forget to eat! It is important to make sure your
puppy is eating three meat a day. Kibble or dry food and water should be placed where puppy can get to it's food at
all times. Check to see if puppy has eaten it's food if puppy has not eaten then you need to give puppy his food by hand
and make sure puppy eats. Baby food is a good meal to give puppy so is chicken and rice. If your puppy does not want
to eat seek medial attention immediately and give Karo Syrup immediately to puppy.
Toy and small breeds of puppies have limited body energy reserves and an immature mechanism for breaking down
large sugar complexes into smaller, more useable, short chain sugars. They also have a higher metabolic demand for sugar.
Puppies lack the feedback mechanism between the blood and the liver. In the puppy, when the blood glucose levels fall below
a certain point the liver will not start to increase conversion of food to to useable blood sugar like it would in an
adult dog.
Hypoglycemia treatment is directed at restoring blood levels of glucose. Begin at once prolonged or repeated attacks
can cause permanent damage to the brain. If the puppy is awake give him Karo Syrup, honey, or sugar in water by mouth.
He will begin to improve in 30 minutes. When he is unconscious, he will have to be given a Dextrose solution intravenously.
It may be necessary to treat for swelling of the brain. A veterinarian should be called at once. Prevent recurrent attacks
by feeding high quality kibble diet, and add to it syrup, sugar or honey. See that the puppy eats and drinks regularly.
Don't assume he is eating and drinking regularly. Food and water must be available at all times
T-cup Myth
Read about Yorkshire terrier sizes and shapes; Everyone seems to be looking for a small teacup Yorkie. Beware,
most Yorkies are not show dogs but they are all good pets. Let me make one thing very clear, Yorkshire terriers come in
many different sizes and styles. I have seen many pure bred A.K.C. & C.K.C. papered and pedigreed Yorkies that while they
all look the same at a glance they are really not all the same. Teacup myth Teacup Yorkies are really toy Yorkies that
run under 3 pounds when full grown, which can take a couple of years or they sometimes quit growing at a about 1 year. They
are not a special breed they are just runts. Runts are usually very obvious as soon as they are born as they weigh only about
2 ounces, while the normal size is 4 to 6 ounces. These little jewels die very easy and require very special care all of their
lives. Yorkshire terriers range from 2 and half to 15 pounds. Yorkie bodies can be boxy or long. Their legs range
from short doxie like legs to too long. I like the small to medium length legs. Yorkie hair comes in a wide range of styles,
some a complete nightmare others have very manageable hair. Long haired Yorkies require daily care and should not go out in
the woods. Yorkie Hair is ideal when it hangs down straight and not too stiff but also not too light and fury. And then of
course a part down the middle from head to tail. You will always be taking a chance that your puppy will be bigger that
you wanted. The good thing is that your Yorkie will be so great you wouldn't want him/her any other way. Please remember that
a really little dog requires daily special care and should live in the house. We have a 8 pound female whose father was
a 2 1/2 pound and mother was under 5 pounds. But she throws small puppies that are really fine under 5 pounds. I have seen
a very large puppy grow up to be the smallest in that litter. I have seen very small puppies keep growing and keep growing
to the 7 or 8 pound range.
Health
The lifespan of a healthy Yorkie is 12 to 15 years. Undersized Yorkies that are three pounds or less generally have
a shorter lifespan, as they are especially prone to health problems such as chronic diarrhea and vomiting, are even more sensitive
to anesthesia, and are more easily injured.
Health issues often seen in the Yorkshire Terrier include bronchitis, lymphangiectasia, hepatic lipidosis, cataracts,
and keratitis sicca. Additionally, injection reactions are common. Yorkies often have a delicate digestive system, with vomiting
or diarrhea resulting from consumption of foods outside of a regular diet As with many purebred dogs, the Yorkshire Terrier
is prone to certain genetic disorders. The following are among the most common congenital defects that affect Yorkies:
Distichiae Hypoplasia of dens Legg-Perthes disease Luxating patellas Portosystemic shunt Tracheal
collapse
Hypoglycimia
Hypoglycemia or low blood sugar is a common problem with all toy breed puppies including the yorkshire terrier. Hypoglycemia
is the medical term for low blood sugar, which is a condition in which there is a drastic, sudden drop in the level of blood
sugar in the puppy. In small breed puppies from post-weaning to 4 month of age, the most common form of hypoglycemia is called
Transient Juvenile Hypoglycemia: “Transient” because the symptoms can be reversed by eating; "Juvenile" because
it is seen in young puppies. Veterinarians unfamiliar with toys often mis-diagnose the condition as viral hepatitis or encephalitis.
As a toy yorkie breeder or pet owner, it is important to recognize the symptoms of hypoglycemia and know how to treat it.
Hypoglycemia is easily treatable in the early stages, but fatal if allowed to progress. Many puppies are lost needlessly to
hypoglycemia because of ignorance on the part of their owner or veterinarian.
It is important to understand that just because a puppy has an episode of hypoglycemia, it does not mean that
the puppy is truly "hypoglycemic." True hypoglycemia is a chronic condition caused by overproduction of insulin by the pancreas.
Even though the pancreas may normally function properly, toy puppies can still have an isolated hypoglycemic incident in reaction
to stress or fasting. Pups of any breed are more likely to develop hypoglycemia than adults, because their skeletal muscle
mass and liver size are smaller and brain size, larger, in proportion to the rest of their body. Therefore, there is less
glucose being put out into the blood and more being used by the brain, which is dependent upon adequate glucose in order to
function. In small and toy breeds, this discrepancy is more pronounced. Even a brief period of fasting or stress in a toy
breed puppy can trigger a hypoglycemic "attack. Yorkie puppies with Transient Juvenile Hypoglycemia have normal liver size
and function, but inadequate glucose precursors or glucose in its stored form (body fat). Hypoglycemic incidents are almost
always preceded by a stress of some kind. Some examples of common stresses include: weaning, teething, vaccinations, a change
in environment, shipping, over-handling, cold temperatures, intestinal parasites, infections, anorexia, etc. Many yorkie puppies
simply play too hard and stress their system or forget to eat. I have heard of young males experiencing hypoglycemia when
a female in heat is around. They become so worked up over the female that they do not eat and their blood sugar drops.
The first sign of hypoglycemia is the yorkshire terrier puppy slowing down and then acting listless. The puppy will
then begin to tremble or shiver. This is a reaction caused as the brain is starved for glucose. More signs of an attack are
a weakness, confusion, wobbly gait, frothing or drooling from the mouth - sometimes even a seizure and drain of blood from
the head. His body will be limp, lifeless, and a check of the gums will show them to be pale, almost a grayish white in color
rather than a healthy bright pink.. The body temperature will be subnormal. After a time, the puppy will become comatose and
may even appear to be dead. The puppy can go into shock and, if not cared for properly and promptly, may even die.
If Yorkie hypoglycemia is caught in the early stages, rub Nutri-Cal (Caro syrup will do if you have no Nutri-Cal)
on the puppy's gums, under the tongue, and on the roof of the mouth. Get a heating pad or heating blanket and slowly warm
the puppy to proper body temperature. If the puppy responds, all is well. Feed a quality, canned food containing, high-carbohydrates
and protein right away (you may want to mix it with egg yolk) and then monitor the puppy to be sure that the condition does
not recur. Be sure to eliminate the stress that caused the episode if at all possible.
If Yorkie hypoglycemia is caught in the more advanced stages, rub Nutri-Cal
or Caro in the mouth, and carefully insert a small amount in the rectum. Slowly warm the puppy to normal body temperature
(101-102 degrees F) and keep him warm continuously with light heat. If the yorkie puppy still does not respond, carefully
eye dropper dextrose solution or Caro water into the mouth, a little at a time only if the dog can swallow. Call your veterinarian
immediately and inform him that you have a hypoglycemic yorkie puppy.
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MALE OR FEMALE
Observations Many people believe that
female dogs make better pets...female preference seems to be ingrained in these people. Most calls for pet dogs have people
wanting a 'sweet girl'. They don't think females display alpha behaviors like 'marking' and/or 'humping'. They believe
that they are more docile and attentive and do not participate in fighting over dominance. Well folks, this is not true
and they don't call them a 'bitch' for nothing!
In the dog pack makeup, females usually
rule the roost, determine pecking order, and who compete to maintain and/or alter that order. The females are, as a result,
more independent, stubborn, and territorial than their male counterparts. The females are much more intent upon exercising
their dominance by participating in alpha behaviors such as 'humping'. There IS a reason people utilize the technical
dog term of 'bitch' in a negative way-and it refers directly to the behaviors exhibited by the females of the dog world.
Most fights will usually break out between 2 females. Males, on the other hand, are usually more affectionate, exuberant,
attentive, and more demanding of attention. They are very attached to their people. They also tend to be more steadfast,
reliable, and less moody. They are more outgoing, more accepting of other pets, and take quicker to children. Most boys
are easily motivated by food (how true!!) and praise, and so eager to please that training is easy. However, males can
be more easily distracted during training, as males like to play so often. And no matter what age, he is more likely to
act silly and more puppy-like, always wanting to play games. Boys are fun loving until the day they die. Females tend to
be more reserved or dignified as they age. Witness the human equivalent of the twinkling eyed Grandpa still playing catch
at age 70, while Grandma quietly observes from the porch.
Boys do get bigger than girls, but only
by an average of 1-2 inches and 3-5 pounds in the Cocker. In the Toy Poodle a variety of sizes can be found regardless
of sex. There are a lot of self claimed 'Miniatures' in any breed out there, but those Breeders are not breeding to the
standard as it is written for each breed. The difference between sizes and sexes is minimal, if bred correctly, and for
improving the breed according to the standard.
Neutered males rarely exhibit secondary
sexual behavior such as 'humping', or 'marking' and lifting of legs. Once the testosterone levels recede after neutering,
most of these behaviors (if they ever existed) will disappear. Boys who were neutered early (by 5 months of age) usually
don't ever raise their leg to urinate.
And while the female will usually come to
you for attention, when waiting for your attention and near at hand. Females are usually less distracted during training,
as she is more eager to get it over with, and get back to her comfy spot on the couch. The female is less likely to wage
a dominance battle with YOU, but she can be cunning and resourceful in getting her own way. She is much more prone to mood swings.
One day she may be sweet and affectionate-the next day reserved and withdrawn or even grumpy. The female also has periods
of being 'in heat' unless she is spayed. Seasonal heats can be a month long nightmare-not just for the female, but you
and every male dog in the neighborhood. If you are not breeding, you'd be best off to have her spayed. Since during this
time she can leave a bloody discharge on carpets, couches, or anywhere she goes. She will be particularly moody and emotional during
this time. A walk outside during this period can become hazardous if male dogs are in the vicinity, and she will leave
a 'scent' for wandering intact males to follow right to your yard, where they will hang out, and 'wait' for days.
Before deciding on male
or female, give consideration to any other dogs that may be in or around your home.
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